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Had a stubborn flange that wouldn't seal on a water tube boiler in Akron...

We kept getting a slight weep after a hydro test, and the gasket surface looked clean. Instead of chasing it with more torque, an old hand told me to try a thin coat of high-temp anti-seize on the stud threads only. Did that, torqued it in three steps to 450 ft-lbs like normal, and the weep stopped. It let the studs stretch more evenly, I guess. Anyone else use that trick for high-pressure flanges?
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3 Comments
wright.drew
Good point, you want it on before you run them in. It also helps a ton if you have to break that joint later. Makes the studs come out clean.
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andrew916
andrew9162mo ago
Wow, did you put the anti-seize on the threads before or after you ran the studs in?
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seanh91
seanh911mo ago
and yeah I feel that man, I've been there before too. It's such a bummer when you think you got it right and then you realize you messed up the order of things. I always put anti-seize on before running the studs in now, learned that lesson the hard way after fighting a rusted exhaust manifold for two days straight. Nothing worse than trying to break a joint loose and having the studs snap because you didn't prep them right from the start. It's one of those little steps that makes a huge difference down the road.
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