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Learned a hard lesson about extraction pressure at a workshop in Portland
Went to a two day hands-on class last month at the Esthetician Training Center in Portland. The instructor, a woman named Jen, watched me work on a mannequin head for about 30 seconds and said 'you're pressing way too hard, you're going to bruise that poor dummy.' I had been digging my fingers in like I was kneading bread dough. She showed me a lighter touch using the pad of my thumb instead of the tip and it worked way better. Anyone else take a class that totally changed how you do basic moves?
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gavine412mo ago
So the thumb pad thing actually made a difference?
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kim.emma2mo ago
Wait, you're telling me you haven't tried it yet? The thumb pad thing is a total game changer if you play anything faster than a casual stroll. My climbing buddy swore it was just a gimmick until he slipped it on during a tough route and his grip didn't give out halfway through the overhang. Now he won't share his and I have to borrow the spare. Seriously, it's like having a secret weapon for your thumb.
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elizabetht569d ago
For real, I was skeptical too until I tried my buddy's on a v4 at the gym. The first time I slapped it on, I could actually lock off without my thumb sliding off the hold. It's not like magic or anything, but it buys you an extra few moves before your grip starts to fry. I swear by the 3mm version for crimps because it's thin enough to feel the rock but tough enough to protect your pad. My friend started wearing hers on just one hand for crack climbing and said it stopped the flapper city she used to get. Honestly, if you do any kind of bouldering with small edges, it's worth the $15 just to see if it works for you lol.
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