Forget the look for a second... it's totally about the feel. A cheap one just feels wrong in your hand, like it's fighting you. The good ones have a balance and a texture that just... fits. It's not one thing, it's everything working together so you don't even think about it.
Seriously, it's BOTH for me. The good ones just WORK better in your hand every single day. But what SPECIFICALLY feels better? Is it the weight, or the way your fingers sit on it?